So for a 1478 =1478mm effective length, and so on. I believe the naming works like this: 6pk1470 = 6 rib, 1470mm effective length. This is a 6pk1470 belt that may fit super tight. I didn't have one for a long time until I noticed the area and wondered what went there. And no the extra idler isn't absolutely necessary. Having trouble finding the 6PK1478, looks like that might be the numbering system Gates uses in the UK, US part numbers look like K061015, I think I'll reach out to Gates and see what I need, their website is pretty terrible.ĭang man, you always got something broken. Pulled out the zion expansion tank (kinda) got an 18" wrench on it and was able to retract it with great difficulty.and now it won't tension, it's just stuck and won't move under it's own power. When I tried to fit the belt, I couldn't get it to move. Ok, and the extra idler is between the alternator and the power steering pump and barely does anything? Little bracket bolted the alternator housing?Īnd now my SC tensioner is broken. But don't want you to buy something that isn't correct based on my memory.Įdit: went back through some emails with Frank. I've definitely used the belt size you have listed before. The belt ttfs initially sent was really tight. They're really close to each other in size so the belt should fit either but if it was the smaller pulley, the belt will be a little long and may not grip as well. TBH, I don't remember exactly if I was using the 6pk1478 with the 3.33 or 3.25 pulley. It's either a 1468 or a 1483I couldn't find an RPM belt to fit any of the pulley sizes I went through. Bussa, you said you ran a 1478 I think with the 3.33. My current belt is a 6PK1500S, but I can't determine if that's 1500mm effective length or outside circumference. Their RPM belts aren't even close in fit, so the green back is the best option according to the internet. Um.you talking about the cap over the bolt? Destroy it and move on. I got my car at 59k and didn't have to change them until 260k+. It's a rather annoying task, but at least those orings last a very long time. Is there a trick to getting the little warranty nanny plastic thing off the front of the pulley or do I just mangle it? I tried prying it away, but there's a soft steel collar behind it that I mangled instead.Woot! Glad you were finally able to get it done. I received a package from the great state of Georgia containing roughly 40 horsepower (fingers crossed) the other day that I'm also going to install, warranty be damned. The 80 dollar tool I bought was no help, just ended up putting it back in the box and on a shelf. I still have about 27 hours of wrenching that bolt back in, tightening the other 4, re-installing the oil lines and generally putting everything back together. Cleaned off the block with brake cleaner, scrubbed the bracket in my 5 gallon bucket parts cleaner and stuck the new o-rings in. There was a lot of inefficient swearing and throwing stuff (by me, my kid was pretty calm the whole time). She's so small and skinny that she's even able to put two fingers on it, but ultimately it took my 13mm long offset to do the job with the engine jacked up all the way against the strut tower brace. Took me and the kid 3.5 hours to get that bolt out.
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